In the dark, either at night or in unlit underground passages, Night Vision will play a great part. If one side can sneak up to the enemy undetected, they will gain the advantage of Surprise, while if neither side knows that the other is there, the encounter might never happen! A lot of this will depend on the circumstances - whether there are any walls, trees, or buildings in the way, for example - and you will have to make your own decision in each case. It is also important to take into account who can see what. The score indicates the position from which the creatures are approaching in terms of a clock face. Outdoors, nominate one direction as twelve o'clock and roll a D12. 1, 2, or 3 indicates the creatures are approaching from in front 4, 5, or 6 that they are approaching from the rear. For example, in a corridor opponents can be coming from either in front or behind the adventurers - roll a D6. Work out how many possible directions the creatures can be coming from and roll an appropriate dice. The positions of wandering creatures must be determined randomly. In dark or underground settings, bear in mind the maximum visibility distances. 4D6 yards is a fairly reasonable distance at which to begin a confrontation. If you are unsure as to where exactly to position antagonists, roll what seems a suitable dice to establish the distance between them. Players will often be tempted to place their models in an advantageous situation incompatible with what they have previously said and done - don't let them get away with it! You should also place the players' enemies. The placing of the pieces is always left to the GM - even the players' own characters should be positioned as you indicate. Models, however, look much better, especially when skillfully painted and converted. It is not strictly necessary to have models for all, or even any, of the participants - pieces of paper or other improvised counters will do. Once the scene of battle has been established, the gamesmaster can position the combatants, using models to represent the various characters and creatures.
Improvised scenery: Scenery may be improvised from card, books, or anything at hand. Model scenery: Actual model scenery can be used, including walls, doors, and other items made from card or whatever. Paper ground plans: a piece of paper can be used as the scene of battle and any pertinent features may be drawn onto it. There are several ways of achieving this and you can opt for any method that appeals to you. If the fighting is taking place inside a room or building, you can indicate the position of walls, doors, windows, furniture, etc. This can be done on any small area of table - a square foot of so is generally all that is required. When adventurers encounter foes, the gamesmaster will need to make an impromptu scene of battle.
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